Thursday, September 10, 2009

Composting Tips part 1

Ok everyone this subject is very big SO I am going to post this in a couple of sections so you can ready at you own pace.

Why should you compost you ask? The Average home could save 35% of the waste in the lanfill if they recycled. Also the key to happy healthy plants is happy soil.

When building a good compost pile you want stuff to break down at different times. This allows for stable food and decaying material for the beneficail microorganisms and worms.

Compost that is completely broke down is still benefical to the garden it becomes stable humus. Which means it no longer breaks down fast, becasue all the organic matter has broke down. This process takes between 6 months to a year.

A good compost mixture should contain Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and micronutrients like: Boron, iodine, magnese, copper, zinc, and iron. The more of these things you have in your compost the better your plants will do.

Adding compost or "humus" to the soil increases water retension up to 200% of its dry weight compaired to 20% without it.

Compost bonds with certain toxins like cadmium and lead and does not let it get absorbed by the plants.

You need 4 things for Microorganisms to live and work in a compost pile:
1. Carbon 2. Nitrogen 3. Oxygen 4. Moisture

Examples of Carbon are Leaves, straw, sawdust, and corn stalks

Nitrogen is basically your activator in your compost pile "they get things cooking" Examples of Nitrogen are: Manure, Grass clippings, Kelp, Green Vegetation, Bloodmeal

Nitrogen needs to be added in smaller quantities then Carbon. To much Nitrogen releases a amonia gas smell were to little makes the pile breakdown take to long.

Oxygen is required by almost all microorganisms. If you do not have oxygen in the pile decompistion slows 90%.

Moisture is needed for Microorganisms and other soil creatures like worms to do thier work. Optimal moisture content is 45% to 50%.

Heat is a byproduct of an baterial organism, but plays no actual part in breaking down of organic matter. The reason people tryaand heat there compost piles are to kill disease causing organisms and weed seeds.

Earth Worms are an awesome addition to compost piles. They ingest and digest organic matter at a rate of 1 time there body weight a day . The worms break down organic matter making it available faster to the benifical bateria and fungus.

You want to make sure you do not add to much of one thing to your garden ata time. Example: Putting a lot of hay in the pile at one time will create to much carbonaceius matterial and not enough nitrogen. Or to much grass clipping will make a slimy mess.

WHen you gather a large quantity of stuff leave it off to the side of the big pile and add stuff to the pile a little at a time.

The more variety of stuff you add to your pile the more microorganisms you will ahve. For beginners your mixture should losely fit this formula: 2 parts vegetal matter (grass, leaves, straw) 1 part animal manure.

A Great list of stuff to add to your pile are:
Alfalfa meal and hay, algae (pond weeds), Apple Pomace (cider press waste), Ashes (wood not coal), Buckwheat, cat litter (unused), citrus waste, coffe waste and grounds, corn stals and husk, cotton seed, dog food (nitrogen activator), dolomite, earthworms, egg shell (grind or crush), flowers, peels, granite dust, dried grass clippings, green sand, hay, hedge clippings (chopped up), Brewery waste, kelp, leaves, peanut shells, peat moss, phosphate rock, ground oster shells or clams, sphanum moss, weeds, wheat straw.

Composting Tips Part 2

If you are adding ashes to your compost pile you should not add coal ashes they are toxic to plants you need to use firplace ashes. When using fireplace ashes you need to sift out the bigger chunks. Wood ash is a great source of potash. Some people use ashes as a bug Deterent.

Burning bannana skins, cocoshells, cucumbers and lemon skins and applying in layers to the compost pile increases potassium and phosphorus content.

Feather contain High Nitrogen.

When adding kitchen scraps do not use: oils, meats, or dairy products. Oils coat plant matter like varnish. Meat attracts flies and wild life.

When applying grass clippings to compost pile instead of "Grass cycling" dry it first and mix with something else dry like leaves or put them in in very small layers.

You must do layers for successful compost pile.

When using grass clippings that have been treated with herbicides or pesticides you should let break down for 1 year before using.

A compost pile that becomes to wet needs turned.

A pile of leaves will sit for a year decomposing. If you chop up the leaves they will break down up to 4 times faster.

Adding oak leaves makes compost acidic which is good for acid loving plants like blue berries.

Soil added to a compost pile is natures best Activator.

A seed once ingested and subjected to the digestive system of a earthworm will never grow.

A compost pile should reach 135 degrees F for a few days to make weed seed sterile.

If adding paper to your compost pile you should shred it first so it breaks down fast.

If you are going to add veg material or green material to your compost pile that comes from a diseased plant you need to burn the material first then add the ashes.

Cat or dog dropping should never be added to compost pile that goes for cat litter as well. This is because the cat/dog waste contains harmful and dangerous organisms that can cause blindness and other organ problems.

You can starta compost pile with material taken from another compost pile called "seeding Compost" this gives the new pile microorganisms and possibly earth worms as well.

A 2 inch layer of seeding compost can be put into your pile on top of every 12 inches or so of new organic matter.

Vegetarians can use things like alfalpha or cotton seed instead of bone meal or blood meal to add protein to compost pile.

Composting tips part 3

Composting using the "Heap" method requires the least amount of work to get started. Make sure with this method that you start the pile in a area you are going to put your garden at that way you do not loss the leached nutrients and tea. A good size pile varies in size but a good size to start with is a 5 ft x 5 ft square and 3 feet tall.

There are 4 valid principles in a sucessful compost pile they are: 1. Build compost piles in layers like a sandwich alternating dry material and wet material. 2. You must have accurate moisture content for microbes to live and thrive. 3. The pile must be optimum size and things like insulation, heating and compaction must be considered. and 4. You must have good air flow in your pile or benefical bactria cannot survive.

The "Indore" method or process: Spread alternating 6 inch layers of green and dry vegetable matter witha 2 inch manure top coat. Sprinkle with soil. Repeat one time. Water the pile till it has the consistency of a squeezed out sponge. Poke vent holes all the way to the ground. Watch the pile for teh next 6 weeks keeping an eye out for 2 danger signals: 1. Bad odor nad fly's: Pile got over watered. or 2. "arrested Fermentation" to little water. After 6 weeks, remove the organic matterial stirring it as you go and starta sencond pile. NO worries about layers this time. Allow the compost to ripe as you start your second pile. 3 months breakdown time per pile.

The "University of California Method" makes usable compost in 14 days. When using this method you must chop and shred the material to increase surface area of the organic material. You must also thoroughly blend the activator and carbonaceous material. You must frequently turn the pile every 2-3 days. The pile should measure 4 ft x 5 ft and every 3 or 4 inches generously sprinkle alfalfa meal. Heavy dampening with water. Every 18 inches or so a thick layer of unchopped hay for air channel. Top cover with pile of hay for insulation.

The "Qucik Leaf Compost Method" lay fresh leaves on the ground and add fresh manure and a little composted soil. Rototill and water if to dry. Then stack the material 3 feet high 6 ft wide and however long you want to make it. Cover with plastic 4 to 5 days. Rototill one more time for aeroation. rebuild your pile and replace plastic cover. in 2 weeks it will be ready for use.

If you have no space or are limited in space you are still able to compost using earthworms. Happy earthworms sometimes called "Intestines of the Soil" double their number in about a months time. On average you shold go through about 6-7 lbs of scraps every week feeding our earthworms. Earthworm soil neesd to be between 50 degree F and 84 degree F. Rule of thumb you add twice as many worms as the average daily amount of garbage you want them to process. ex: If you generate 1/2 lbs garbage a day you need 1 lb worms. Blend scraps in a blender so worms can faster absorb and digest it. Worm catsings on average are 5 times richer then most fertile soil and loaded with microorganisms. The best way to harvest your worm castings is to move bedding and worms to one side of the box every 2 to 3 months and fill other side with new bedding this will make them move to new bedding allowing you to harvest castings.

When should you use box or bin when composting? Piles take time and patience to build correctly they must have correct shape and be reshaped after turning and adding more materials. With a container you no longer need to worry about that. Conatiners also keep your pile nice looking and less offensive.

When staring a compost pile you should at least dig up the sod even better dig up a foot or so of ground. The reason you do this to allow the microorganisms and earthworms a head start.

You should not move your pile around year after year. Having your pile in the same spot allows for culturezation of microorganisms and earthworms.

Always leave some compost in your pile when it is finished. The left over compost allows for a cultured kickstart to your new pile

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Composting the Final Chapter

I have heard people say you should put your compost pile in a depression. The theory behind this is that your nutrients will not leach out. The problem with this is that if the water does not drain out your will have a smelly aerobic mess. It is better to put your compost pile where your garden is going to be. Your compost pile should be placed on level ground.

Another approach is to have your compost pile several layers off the ground. This creates airflow by creating channels below the pile. You can use pallets to prop the pile up, But if you have the pile to high the air beneath it will cool the pile down and slow decomposition. Also with this method microorganisms from the ground will not be able to reach the pile.

Do not put you compost pile on a concrete slab. While it prevents nutrients from being leached out into the ground, it empedes aeroation and does not let microials or worms contact the pile. also do not line the floor of the compost pile with plastic to avoid leaching. you will only cut off oxygen supply to the pile, slowing decomp and killing microbes.

Your compost pile should measure 1 cubic yard at least.

Nevery make your compost pile wider or taller then 5-6 feet or your piles center will not have enough air circulation and will become aerobic. Try and keep your pile between 4-6 feet tall.

Always alternate your layers between dry and green stuff. make the layers 6 inch thick for best results. A good example of layering is 6 inch layer of veg or greenstuff, 6 inch manure, a thin layer of soil or finished compost, water then repeat. If you do not want to use animal matter you can instead use rock phosphate.

Your pile will shrink 20-60% depending on material added you can add more material if you like to rebuild pile height.

Aeroation is very important when composting add 2 to 4 inches of sunflower stalks to the baseof a compost pile will provide good air channels.

Another good way to provide good aeroation is to build your pile around ventilating stacks. There are several ways to make the stacks. You can use perforated drainage pipe. You can bundle up corn stalks into cylinders or twist chicken wire into cylinders. You mount the vent stalks straight up and down.

Once your pile is built you can try poking holes through it using a long metal pipe.

You want your compost pile to be between 60-40% moisture content. Basically the material in the pile needs to be wet in the consistancy of a wet wrong spounge.

So one of the biggest problems you will have with your pile is getting the entire pile wet and having no dry spots. Poking holes in the pile helps not only with the aeroation but also helps the entire pile get moisture. Turning your pile throughly also helps with this. also getting your pile wet as you are buliding the layer helps with this.

Thinsg like hay, straw, saw dust, moss and corn cobs should be pre-moistened before adding to the pile.

Rain water is very good for compost pile. Rain water picks up lots of oxygen, minerals, andmicro-organisms on teh way down. You can dish the top of your pile to collect rainwater.

The ph in your ple should be between 6 and 7. The best time to check the ph is before adding to soil. If your plants like it more acidic like blue berries you would add more oak leaves to your pile.

A compost pile that is healthy will maturally neutrilize itself.

Compost is not food it is more like a vitamin boost for your plants. Almost all compost has a very low NPK. Most grdeners add nutrients with compost when applying to garden.