Ok everyone this subject is very big SO I am going to post this in a couple of sections so you can ready at you own pace.
Why should you compost you ask? The Average home could save 35% of the waste in the lanfill if they recycled. Also the key to happy healthy plants is happy soil.
When building a good compost pile you want stuff to break down at different times. This allows for stable food and decaying material for the beneficail microorganisms and worms.
Compost that is completely broke down is still benefical to the garden it becomes stable humus. Which means it no longer breaks down fast, becasue all the organic matter has broke down. This process takes between 6 months to a year.
A good compost mixture should contain Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and micronutrients like: Boron, iodine, magnese, copper, zinc, and iron. The more of these things you have in your compost the better your plants will do.
Adding compost or "humus" to the soil increases water retension up to 200% of its dry weight compaired to 20% without it.
Compost bonds with certain toxins like cadmium and lead and does not let it get absorbed by the plants.
You need 4 things for Microorganisms to live and work in a compost pile:
1. Carbon 2. Nitrogen 3. Oxygen 4. Moisture
Examples of Carbon are Leaves, straw, sawdust, and corn stalks
Nitrogen is basically your activator in your compost pile "they get things cooking" Examples of Nitrogen are: Manure, Grass clippings, Kelp, Green Vegetation, Bloodmeal
Nitrogen needs to be added in smaller quantities then Carbon. To much Nitrogen releases a amonia gas smell were to little makes the pile breakdown take to long.
Oxygen is required by almost all microorganisms. If you do not have oxygen in the pile decompistion slows 90%.
Moisture is needed for Microorganisms and other soil creatures like worms to do thier work. Optimal moisture content is 45% to 50%.
Heat is a byproduct of an baterial organism, but plays no actual part in breaking down of organic matter. The reason people tryaand heat there compost piles are to kill disease causing organisms and weed seeds.
Earth Worms are an awesome addition to compost piles. They ingest and digest organic matter at a rate of 1 time there body weight a day . The worms break down organic matter making it available faster to the benifical bateria and fungus.
You want to make sure you do not add to much of one thing to your garden ata time. Example: Putting a lot of hay in the pile at one time will create to much carbonaceius matterial and not enough nitrogen. Or to much grass clipping will make a slimy mess.
WHen you gather a large quantity of stuff leave it off to the side of the big pile and add stuff to the pile a little at a time.
The more variety of stuff you add to your pile the more microorganisms you will ahve. For beginners your mixture should losely fit this formula: 2 parts vegetal matter (grass, leaves, straw) 1 part animal manure.
A Great list of stuff to add to your pile are:
Alfalfa meal and hay, algae (pond weeds), Apple Pomace (cider press waste), Ashes (wood not coal), Buckwheat, cat litter (unused), citrus waste, coffe waste and grounds, corn stals and husk, cotton seed, dog food (nitrogen activator), dolomite, earthworms, egg shell (grind or crush), flowers, peels, granite dust, dried grass clippings, green sand, hay, hedge clippings (chopped up), Brewery waste, kelp, leaves, peanut shells, peat moss, phosphate rock, ground oster shells or clams, sphanum moss, weeds, wheat straw.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Composting Tips Part 2
If you are adding ashes to your compost pile you should not add coal ashes they are toxic to plants you need to use firplace ashes. When using fireplace ashes you need to sift out the bigger chunks. Wood ash is a great source of potash. Some people use ashes as a bug Deterent.
Burning bannana skins, cocoshells, cucumbers and lemon skins and applying in layers to the compost pile increases potassium and phosphorus content.
Feather contain High Nitrogen.
When adding kitchen scraps do not use: oils, meats, or dairy products. Oils coat plant matter like varnish. Meat attracts flies and wild life.
When applying grass clippings to compost pile instead of "Grass cycling" dry it first and mix with something else dry like leaves or put them in in very small layers.
You must do layers for successful compost pile.
When using grass clippings that have been treated with herbicides or pesticides you should let break down for 1 year before using.
A compost pile that becomes to wet needs turned.
A pile of leaves will sit for a year decomposing. If you chop up the leaves they will break down up to 4 times faster.
Adding oak leaves makes compost acidic which is good for acid loving plants like blue berries.
Soil added to a compost pile is natures best Activator.
A seed once ingested and subjected to the digestive system of a earthworm will never grow.
A compost pile should reach 135 degrees F for a few days to make weed seed sterile.
If adding paper to your compost pile you should shred it first so it breaks down fast.
If you are going to add veg material or green material to your compost pile that comes from a diseased plant you need to burn the material first then add the ashes.
Cat or dog dropping should never be added to compost pile that goes for cat litter as well. This is because the cat/dog waste contains harmful and dangerous organisms that can cause blindness and other organ problems.
You can starta compost pile with material taken from another compost pile called "seeding Compost" this gives the new pile microorganisms and possibly earth worms as well.
A 2 inch layer of seeding compost can be put into your pile on top of every 12 inches or so of new organic matter.
Vegetarians can use things like alfalpha or cotton seed instead of bone meal or blood meal to add protein to compost pile.
Burning bannana skins, cocoshells, cucumbers and lemon skins and applying in layers to the compost pile increases potassium and phosphorus content.
Feather contain High Nitrogen.
When adding kitchen scraps do not use: oils, meats, or dairy products. Oils coat plant matter like varnish. Meat attracts flies and wild life.
When applying grass clippings to compost pile instead of "Grass cycling" dry it first and mix with something else dry like leaves or put them in in very small layers.
You must do layers for successful compost pile.
When using grass clippings that have been treated with herbicides or pesticides you should let break down for 1 year before using.
A compost pile that becomes to wet needs turned.
A pile of leaves will sit for a year decomposing. If you chop up the leaves they will break down up to 4 times faster.
Adding oak leaves makes compost acidic which is good for acid loving plants like blue berries.
Soil added to a compost pile is natures best Activator.
A seed once ingested and subjected to the digestive system of a earthworm will never grow.
A compost pile should reach 135 degrees F for a few days to make weed seed sterile.
If adding paper to your compost pile you should shred it first so it breaks down fast.
If you are going to add veg material or green material to your compost pile that comes from a diseased plant you need to burn the material first then add the ashes.
Cat or dog dropping should never be added to compost pile that goes for cat litter as well. This is because the cat/dog waste contains harmful and dangerous organisms that can cause blindness and other organ problems.
You can starta compost pile with material taken from another compost pile called "seeding Compost" this gives the new pile microorganisms and possibly earth worms as well.
A 2 inch layer of seeding compost can be put into your pile on top of every 12 inches or so of new organic matter.
Vegetarians can use things like alfalpha or cotton seed instead of bone meal or blood meal to add protein to compost pile.
Composting tips part 3
Composting using the "Heap" method requires the least amount of work to get started. Make sure with this method that you start the pile in a area you are going to put your garden at that way you do not loss the leached nutrients and tea. A good size pile varies in size but a good size to start with is a 5 ft x 5 ft square and 3 feet tall.
There are 4 valid principles in a sucessful compost pile they are: 1. Build compost piles in layers like a sandwich alternating dry material and wet material. 2. You must have accurate moisture content for microbes to live and thrive. 3. The pile must be optimum size and things like insulation, heating and compaction must be considered. and 4. You must have good air flow in your pile or benefical bactria cannot survive.
The "Indore" method or process: Spread alternating 6 inch layers of green and dry vegetable matter witha 2 inch manure top coat. Sprinkle with soil. Repeat one time. Water the pile till it has the consistency of a squeezed out sponge. Poke vent holes all the way to the ground. Watch the pile for teh next 6 weeks keeping an eye out for 2 danger signals: 1. Bad odor nad fly's: Pile got over watered. or 2. "arrested Fermentation" to little water. After 6 weeks, remove the organic matterial stirring it as you go and starta sencond pile. NO worries about layers this time. Allow the compost to ripe as you start your second pile. 3 months breakdown time per pile.
The "University of California Method" makes usable compost in 14 days. When using this method you must chop and shred the material to increase surface area of the organic material. You must also thoroughly blend the activator and carbonaceous material. You must frequently turn the pile every 2-3 days. The pile should measure 4 ft x 5 ft and every 3 or 4 inches generously sprinkle alfalfa meal. Heavy dampening with water. Every 18 inches or so a thick layer of unchopped hay for air channel. Top cover with pile of hay for insulation.
The "Qucik Leaf Compost Method" lay fresh leaves on the ground and add fresh manure and a little composted soil. Rototill and water if to dry. Then stack the material 3 feet high 6 ft wide and however long you want to make it. Cover with plastic 4 to 5 days. Rototill one more time for aeroation. rebuild your pile and replace plastic cover. in 2 weeks it will be ready for use.
If you have no space or are limited in space you are still able to compost using earthworms. Happy earthworms sometimes called "Intestines of the Soil" double their number in about a months time. On average you shold go through about 6-7 lbs of scraps every week feeding our earthworms. Earthworm soil neesd to be between 50 degree F and 84 degree F. Rule of thumb you add twice as many worms as the average daily amount of garbage you want them to process. ex: If you generate 1/2 lbs garbage a day you need 1 lb worms. Blend scraps in a blender so worms can faster absorb and digest it. Worm catsings on average are 5 times richer then most fertile soil and loaded with microorganisms. The best way to harvest your worm castings is to move bedding and worms to one side of the box every 2 to 3 months and fill other side with new bedding this will make them move to new bedding allowing you to harvest castings.
When should you use box or bin when composting? Piles take time and patience to build correctly they must have correct shape and be reshaped after turning and adding more materials. With a container you no longer need to worry about that. Conatiners also keep your pile nice looking and less offensive.
When staring a compost pile you should at least dig up the sod even better dig up a foot or so of ground. The reason you do this to allow the microorganisms and earthworms a head start.
You should not move your pile around year after year. Having your pile in the same spot allows for culturezation of microorganisms and earthworms.
Always leave some compost in your pile when it is finished. The left over compost allows for a cultured kickstart to your new pile
There are 4 valid principles in a sucessful compost pile they are: 1. Build compost piles in layers like a sandwich alternating dry material and wet material. 2. You must have accurate moisture content for microbes to live and thrive. 3. The pile must be optimum size and things like insulation, heating and compaction must be considered. and 4. You must have good air flow in your pile or benefical bactria cannot survive.
The "Indore" method or process: Spread alternating 6 inch layers of green and dry vegetable matter witha 2 inch manure top coat. Sprinkle with soil. Repeat one time. Water the pile till it has the consistency of a squeezed out sponge. Poke vent holes all the way to the ground. Watch the pile for teh next 6 weeks keeping an eye out for 2 danger signals: 1. Bad odor nad fly's: Pile got over watered. or 2. "arrested Fermentation" to little water. After 6 weeks, remove the organic matterial stirring it as you go and starta sencond pile. NO worries about layers this time. Allow the compost to ripe as you start your second pile. 3 months breakdown time per pile.
The "University of California Method" makes usable compost in 14 days. When using this method you must chop and shred the material to increase surface area of the organic material. You must also thoroughly blend the activator and carbonaceous material. You must frequently turn the pile every 2-3 days. The pile should measure 4 ft x 5 ft and every 3 or 4 inches generously sprinkle alfalfa meal. Heavy dampening with water. Every 18 inches or so a thick layer of unchopped hay for air channel. Top cover with pile of hay for insulation.
The "Qucik Leaf Compost Method" lay fresh leaves on the ground and add fresh manure and a little composted soil. Rototill and water if to dry. Then stack the material 3 feet high 6 ft wide and however long you want to make it. Cover with plastic 4 to 5 days. Rototill one more time for aeroation. rebuild your pile and replace plastic cover. in 2 weeks it will be ready for use.
If you have no space or are limited in space you are still able to compost using earthworms. Happy earthworms sometimes called "Intestines of the Soil" double their number in about a months time. On average you shold go through about 6-7 lbs of scraps every week feeding our earthworms. Earthworm soil neesd to be between 50 degree F and 84 degree F. Rule of thumb you add twice as many worms as the average daily amount of garbage you want them to process. ex: If you generate 1/2 lbs garbage a day you need 1 lb worms. Blend scraps in a blender so worms can faster absorb and digest it. Worm catsings on average are 5 times richer then most fertile soil and loaded with microorganisms. The best way to harvest your worm castings is to move bedding and worms to one side of the box every 2 to 3 months and fill other side with new bedding this will make them move to new bedding allowing you to harvest castings.
When should you use box or bin when composting? Piles take time and patience to build correctly they must have correct shape and be reshaped after turning and adding more materials. With a container you no longer need to worry about that. Conatiners also keep your pile nice looking and less offensive.
When staring a compost pile you should at least dig up the sod even better dig up a foot or so of ground. The reason you do this to allow the microorganisms and earthworms a head start.
You should not move your pile around year after year. Having your pile in the same spot allows for culturezation of microorganisms and earthworms.
Always leave some compost in your pile when it is finished. The left over compost allows for a cultured kickstart to your new pile
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Composting the Final Chapter
I have heard people say you should put your compost pile in a depression. The theory behind this is that your nutrients will not leach out. The problem with this is that if the water does not drain out your will have a smelly aerobic mess. It is better to put your compost pile where your garden is going to be. Your compost pile should be placed on level ground.
Another approach is to have your compost pile several layers off the ground. This creates airflow by creating channels below the pile. You can use pallets to prop the pile up, But if you have the pile to high the air beneath it will cool the pile down and slow decomposition. Also with this method microorganisms from the ground will not be able to reach the pile.
Do not put you compost pile on a concrete slab. While it prevents nutrients from being leached out into the ground, it empedes aeroation and does not let microials or worms contact the pile. also do not line the floor of the compost pile with plastic to avoid leaching. you will only cut off oxygen supply to the pile, slowing decomp and killing microbes.
Your compost pile should measure 1 cubic yard at least.
Nevery make your compost pile wider or taller then 5-6 feet or your piles center will not have enough air circulation and will become aerobic. Try and keep your pile between 4-6 feet tall.
Always alternate your layers between dry and green stuff. make the layers 6 inch thick for best results. A good example of layering is 6 inch layer of veg or greenstuff, 6 inch manure, a thin layer of soil or finished compost, water then repeat. If you do not want to use animal matter you can instead use rock phosphate.
Your pile will shrink 20-60% depending on material added you can add more material if you like to rebuild pile height.
Aeroation is very important when composting add 2 to 4 inches of sunflower stalks to the baseof a compost pile will provide good air channels.
Another good way to provide good aeroation is to build your pile around ventilating stacks. There are several ways to make the stacks. You can use perforated drainage pipe. You can bundle up corn stalks into cylinders or twist chicken wire into cylinders. You mount the vent stalks straight up and down.
Once your pile is built you can try poking holes through it using a long metal pipe.
You want your compost pile to be between 60-40% moisture content. Basically the material in the pile needs to be wet in the consistancy of a wet wrong spounge.
So one of the biggest problems you will have with your pile is getting the entire pile wet and having no dry spots. Poking holes in the pile helps not only with the aeroation but also helps the entire pile get moisture. Turning your pile throughly also helps with this. also getting your pile wet as you are buliding the layer helps with this.
Thinsg like hay, straw, saw dust, moss and corn cobs should be pre-moistened before adding to the pile.
Rain water is very good for compost pile. Rain water picks up lots of oxygen, minerals, andmicro-organisms on teh way down. You can dish the top of your pile to collect rainwater.
The ph in your ple should be between 6 and 7. The best time to check the ph is before adding to soil. If your plants like it more acidic like blue berries you would add more oak leaves to your pile.
A compost pile that is healthy will maturally neutrilize itself.
Compost is not food it is more like a vitamin boost for your plants. Almost all compost has a very low NPK. Most grdeners add nutrients with compost when applying to garden.
Another approach is to have your compost pile several layers off the ground. This creates airflow by creating channels below the pile. You can use pallets to prop the pile up, But if you have the pile to high the air beneath it will cool the pile down and slow decomposition. Also with this method microorganisms from the ground will not be able to reach the pile.
Do not put you compost pile on a concrete slab. While it prevents nutrients from being leached out into the ground, it empedes aeroation and does not let microials or worms contact the pile. also do not line the floor of the compost pile with plastic to avoid leaching. you will only cut off oxygen supply to the pile, slowing decomp and killing microbes.
Your compost pile should measure 1 cubic yard at least.
Nevery make your compost pile wider or taller then 5-6 feet or your piles center will not have enough air circulation and will become aerobic. Try and keep your pile between 4-6 feet tall.
Always alternate your layers between dry and green stuff. make the layers 6 inch thick for best results. A good example of layering is 6 inch layer of veg or greenstuff, 6 inch manure, a thin layer of soil or finished compost, water then repeat. If you do not want to use animal matter you can instead use rock phosphate.
Your pile will shrink 20-60% depending on material added you can add more material if you like to rebuild pile height.
Aeroation is very important when composting add 2 to 4 inches of sunflower stalks to the baseof a compost pile will provide good air channels.
Another good way to provide good aeroation is to build your pile around ventilating stacks. There are several ways to make the stacks. You can use perforated drainage pipe. You can bundle up corn stalks into cylinders or twist chicken wire into cylinders. You mount the vent stalks straight up and down.
Once your pile is built you can try poking holes through it using a long metal pipe.
You want your compost pile to be between 60-40% moisture content. Basically the material in the pile needs to be wet in the consistancy of a wet wrong spounge.
So one of the biggest problems you will have with your pile is getting the entire pile wet and having no dry spots. Poking holes in the pile helps not only with the aeroation but also helps the entire pile get moisture. Turning your pile throughly also helps with this. also getting your pile wet as you are buliding the layer helps with this.
Thinsg like hay, straw, saw dust, moss and corn cobs should be pre-moistened before adding to the pile.
Rain water is very good for compost pile. Rain water picks up lots of oxygen, minerals, andmicro-organisms on teh way down. You can dish the top of your pile to collect rainwater.
The ph in your ple should be between 6 and 7. The best time to check the ph is before adding to soil. If your plants like it more acidic like blue berries you would add more oak leaves to your pile.
A compost pile that is healthy will maturally neutrilize itself.
Compost is not food it is more like a vitamin boost for your plants. Almost all compost has a very low NPK. Most grdeners add nutrients with compost when applying to garden.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Step by Step Video for Tissue Culture
We wanted to show you how to do tissue culture. We broke the process down into 8 easy to follow videos allowing you to watch and learn at your own pace. If you have any questions or need to purchase supplies shown in these videos please visit http://www.simplyhydro.com/
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvPQaMG_S-c part 1
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnKrOVNtyxY part 2
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caAB8jrcCGE part 3
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neOEWTcJ-NA part4
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6u4QSAC218 part 5
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIWPJ4DzvjU part 6
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O87lRW_0ecE part 7
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0q_XRHnn9pI part 8
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Video For Step by Step Cloning Successfully
The staff at Simply Hydroponics and Organics get asked on a regular basis "How do I take Clones Successfully". So I decided I would make a video for you guys that shows you step by step how to take successful clones. I welcome comments and questions.
Linkage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mtFfxs68Lg
if you have any questions about this video please email us at gbrown@simplyhydro.com or call 352-628-2655
Linkage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mtFfxs68Lg
if you have any questions about this video please email us at gbrown@simplyhydro.com or call 352-628-2655
Friday, July 10, 2009
Butterfly Gardening with Native Plants
Butterflies are one of natures greatest gifts. They have brilliant colors. They love sunlight. Butterflies occur in areas where thier specific needs are meet. The best thing to do is find out what kind of butterfly's you like that are native to your area and tailor your garden to supply that butterflies requirments.
Butterflies undergo 4 stages in thier lives. They begin as eggs. Female butterflies seek out the tend green new plant growth for laying thier eggs. They usually lay thiers eggs singlely or in small patches. This insures that each catterpillar gets the most nutricious food supply possible.
Eggs normally hatch in 4 days to a week. When they hatch the second stage begins. The caterpillar.
Caterpillars are eating machines. Thier appetites are what causes the gardener to use pesticides to protect thier perfect plants. Gardeners must keep in mind the caterpillars rarely do real damage to the plants.
While butterflies consume nearly every lots of plants they normally only eat one kind of plant ex: monarchand queen caterpillars feed only on milkweed. This is the way they naturally reduce competition.
Caterpillars cycle only last around 2 weeks. At the end of that time they will stop eating for a day and shed thier skin. Wen that stage is finished it becomes a chrysalis. The adult butterfly hatches in about 9 days. When it hatches the wings are badly crumpled and the body is fat with posion.
The butterfly almost always emerges from it egg first thing in the morning. once out they begin waving thier wings pumping the excess body fluid into thier wings until the wings are straight and hardened. By mid morning they are ready to search for thier food and mate. This stage which we so favor is shortly lived.
The presence of the appropriate larval food plants in your garden will attract females. The females attract the males.
Butterflies have specific recurments in food, water, and shelter. Understanding these componates is neccesary when designing your garden.
Cover gives them shelter from predators and weather.
In most cases the wooded plants provide the shelter while the flowers provide nectar. Butterflies perfer the sun for feeding.
Butterflies also need water. They DO NOT drink from open water pond or bird baths. They need puddles of very wet sand or mud. The best way to provide them food is with saucer of sand kept wet.
Make sure you find out what kind of butterflies in your area you like and plant according to the food tat they like. DO not waste your time trying to attract butterflies not found in your area. You also want to make sure you planta varity of plnts that bloom year around for themt o have food all year long.
Butterflies undergo 4 stages in thier lives. They begin as eggs. Female butterflies seek out the tend green new plant growth for laying thier eggs. They usually lay thiers eggs singlely or in small patches. This insures that each catterpillar gets the most nutricious food supply possible.
Eggs normally hatch in 4 days to a week. When they hatch the second stage begins. The caterpillar.
Caterpillars are eating machines. Thier appetites are what causes the gardener to use pesticides to protect thier perfect plants. Gardeners must keep in mind the caterpillars rarely do real damage to the plants.
While butterflies consume nearly every lots of plants they normally only eat one kind of plant ex: monarchand queen caterpillars feed only on milkweed. This is the way they naturally reduce competition.
Caterpillars cycle only last around 2 weeks. At the end of that time they will stop eating for a day and shed thier skin. Wen that stage is finished it becomes a chrysalis. The adult butterfly hatches in about 9 days. When it hatches the wings are badly crumpled and the body is fat with posion.
The butterfly almost always emerges from it egg first thing in the morning. once out they begin waving thier wings pumping the excess body fluid into thier wings until the wings are straight and hardened. By mid morning they are ready to search for thier food and mate. This stage which we so favor is shortly lived.
The presence of the appropriate larval food plants in your garden will attract females. The females attract the males.
Butterflies have specific recurments in food, water, and shelter. Understanding these componates is neccesary when designing your garden.
Cover gives them shelter from predators and weather.
In most cases the wooded plants provide the shelter while the flowers provide nectar. Butterflies perfer the sun for feeding.
Butterflies also need water. They DO NOT drink from open water pond or bird baths. They need puddles of very wet sand or mud. The best way to provide them food is with saucer of sand kept wet.
Make sure you find out what kind of butterflies in your area you like and plant according to the food tat they like. DO not waste your time trying to attract butterflies not found in your area. You also want to make sure you planta varity of plnts that bloom year around for themt o have food all year long.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Different Systems pro's and con's
Answer: Ebb & Floww System is the simplest and easiest by far. With an Ebb & Flow System there is a tray & reservoir. Water fills the tray to the water level you set with an over-flo and when the pump turns off, the water drains back down the same hole it filled with collecting into the reservoir to be reused again and again. You should change the water every 7 to 10 days ANYTIME you have a reservoir. Drip Systems are still pretty easy but a couple things could still go wrong. With a drip system the water is supplied through a drip line. This can cause a couple of problems if you use an organic nutrient, you are more likely to get a clogged line. If the line gets clogged the plant will not get water, if you are not watching your drip lines you will not notice the problem until the plant starts wilting. If the plant wilts you are hurting your yield. On the plus side you you can supply a very large number of plants with less water. Aeroponic Systems are the hardest, but when dialed in they are the Lamborghini's of the plant world. There are a few versions of this but in general, it is plants in water. Most Aeroponic Systems use water to mist the roots. The water temp has to stay cool (around 60°-70°) this means water chillers most of the time if your are in Florida. With Aeroponic Systems you are more susceptible to Root Rot and other root bound diseases. With A Run to Waist System the nutrient solution is only used one time, after the one use it is discarded. With a Run To Waist System the plants always receive fresh unused nutrients so the plants get the best benefit from Run To Waist Systems. However Run To Waist Systems can be viewed as very wasteful since they do not recycle the water.
(Aerponic)
(Drip Recovery)
(Ebb & Flo AKA Flood & Drain)
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Water Saving Techniques
hello again I have been getting lots of request for water saving techniques since we are in such a major drought in Florida. There really are a lot of great ways to save on watering and still keep your favorite plants healthy.
I love Hydretain http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/hydretain.htm. Hydretain is a great product that can cut your watering up to 50% not only for your lawn but you garden. It treats up to 5,000 square feet and is biodegradeable. It is not a plant food so you still need feed your plants. Lawn and Plant Survival Aid. Achieve healthy green lawns & plants with proper moisture management. Achieve healthy green lawns & plants with proper moisture management. Used by golf courses, landscapers, interiorscapers and growers. Minimize drought stress. Eliminate dry spots. Improve transplant survival. Maximize flower, fruit & vegetable production. Hydretain is a blend of hygroscopic and humectant compounds that attract and hold moisture, like tiny “water magnets”™ within soil. Hydretain manages available moisture within the soil, extending watering intervals of indoor and outdoor plants, flowers, vegetables, shrubs, trees and grass by as much as 2 to 3 times. Each application reduces watering for up to 3 months.
Next I like to add Vermiculite http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/vermiculite.htm or Soil Moist http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/soil_moist.htm. Soil Moist is like jello when you get it wet it absorbs the water holding it for later plants use. Vermiculite is like a spong when it gets wet it holdswater for later plat use.
I love Hydretain http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/hydretain.htm. Hydretain is a great product that can cut your watering up to 50% not only for your lawn but you garden. It treats up to 5,000 square feet and is biodegradeable. It is not a plant food so you still need feed your plants. Lawn and Plant Survival Aid. Achieve healthy green lawns & plants with proper moisture management. Achieve healthy green lawns & plants with proper moisture management. Used by golf courses, landscapers, interiorscapers and growers. Minimize drought stress. Eliminate dry spots. Improve transplant survival. Maximize flower, fruit & vegetable production. Hydretain is a blend of hygroscopic and humectant compounds that attract and hold moisture, like tiny “water magnets”™ within soil. Hydretain manages available moisture within the soil, extending watering intervals of indoor and outdoor plants, flowers, vegetables, shrubs, trees and grass by as much as 2 to 3 times. Each application reduces watering for up to 3 months.
Next I like to add Vermiculite http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/vermiculite.htm or Soil Moist http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/soil_moist.htm. Soil Moist is like jello when you get it wet it absorbs the water holding it for later plants use. Vermiculite is like a spong when it gets wet it holdswater for later plat use.
Saturday, February 28, 2009
What Are My Fav's #4
My Favorite HID Bulbs are by far Hortilux both MH and HPS. The are the closest thing to the sun that I have found so far I do not get many bad bulb returns from them either. The Hortilux (EYE) Super HPS grow lamps fine-tune your lighting system to provide optimum spectral energy levels that promote vigorous plant growth. The Hortilux grow lamps provide 17% more total energy and 25% more energy in the violet, blue, and green spectrum than standard High Pressure Sodium lamps. These are environmentally friendly and pass EPA, TCLP test criteria as non-hazardous waste. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/hps_bulbs1.htm New Hortilux Blue Metal Halide These bulbs are described as daylight in a bottle. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/mh_bulbs1.htm
My fav. bug preventative and treatments are as follows:
Natural Pyrethrin Concentrate. This is safe because when it dries it breaks down not leaving harmful toxic posions in your yard harming your family and animals. CONTAINS: 0.96% Pyrethrins and 9.6% Piperonyl Butoxide Technical USE ON: Many Vegetables, Ornamentals, Livestock, Pets, and in Households and barns, as a space spray, and to control mosquitoes outdoors. CONTROLS: Vegetables and Ornamentals; Aphids, Whiteflies, Beetles, and Worms. Pets and Livestock; Fleas, Mites, Lice, Flies, Gnats, and Mosquitoes. Households and other areas; Ants, Roaches, Silverfish, Spiders, and many others. Space Spray: Mosquitoes, Flies, Wasps, and others. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/natural_pyrethrin.htm
Garlic Barrier: 100% natural. A minimum risk pesticide that is effective against spider mites and many other plant-sucking bugs. Molds and fungus. Now I have also found that growing garlic in my garden helps keep the bugs away. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/garlic_barrier.htm
Azatrol, a broad spectrum botanical product for control of insects and mites on indoor and outdoor ornamental plants, shrubs, flowers, garden vegetables, fruit and nut trees. Azatrol offers an array of effects by acting as a repellent, anti-feedant, insect growth regulator and ovipositioning deterrent. As a molting inhibitor, it prevents insect larvae from developing into adults. Insects will feed less or not at all on treated foliage, ultimately starving to death. They will also fail to mature and reproduce. This complexity makes it impossible for an insect's resistance to develop. Low odor and OMRI listed. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/azatrol.htm
Neem Oil: Einstein Oil, an all-natural pesticide packed with the power of neem oil, Einstein Oil is particularly effective on spider mites. Einstein Oil is also the smart choice for combating scale, aphids, molds, fungi, & more. This highly concentrated formula mixes with water for lasting control & works by interfering with insects molting rendering pests unable to reach maturity & reproduce. As such, plant pests disappear within one to three life cycles. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/einstein_oil.htm
So now you find yourself asking why I like so many things> If you constantly use the same bug stuff the bugs start becoming immune. I have been known to mix Garlic Barrier with natural Pyreth. or einstien oil.
Best Caterpillar stuff is
Safer Caterpillar Killer
Caterpillar Killer. For trees shrubs and vegetables. Safely kills caterpillars before they can devour your plants. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/safer_caterpillar.htm Caterpillar Killer is a BT product that paralizes there stomach and they starve to death.
Safer Caterpillar Killer
Caterpillar Killer. For trees shrubs and vegetables. Safely kills caterpillars before they can devour your plants. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/safer_caterpillar.htm Caterpillar Killer is a BT product that paralizes there stomach and they starve to death.
My Fav. Beneifical Bug is Lady Bugs, Ladybugs eat aphids and other soft-bodied insects, and can be stored in the refrigerator 1-10 weeks at 35-40 degrees F (depending on time of year). For counter & impulse sales the bag of 1,500 is ideal. Ladybugs may not be available during late April & May (ask).
What are my Fav's #3
alright I have covered Coir. What should I tell you about next: If I have a medium that I know is going to stay to wet I will add perlite. Perlite holds oxygen and allows for faster drainage of soils and mediums. Perlite may be the most commonly used growing medium in the world. This excellent product is used by hydroponic as well as organic gardeners. Perlite has excellent "wicking" action yet doesn't absorb water giving the plants roots plenty of oxygen. Commonly used in a mixture with vermiculite. Sponge Rock is a very large grained perlite (6 -12 mm in size) that is popular among orchid growers. All come in 4 cu ft bags. Simply Hydroponics and Organics sells only high-quality agricultural grade coarse perlite. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/perlite.htm is the link for perlit if you need it.
My favorite way of holds water OR not watering as much would have to be. Soil Moist is an organic "agro-polymer" absorbs water much like a sponge. Used as directed, it can double the amount of water retained by the soil. Totally biodegradable and non-toxic. They look like clear jello. They are also used in head bands to help keep you cool in the summer. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/soil_moist.htm is the link for soil moist.
favorit things to add to the soil or hydro medium when mixing containers are as follows:
Happy Frog: Fox Farm Happy Frog Soil Conditioner is ideal for amending existing garden beds. Happy Frog Soil Conditioner loosens clay soils and provides air space for healthy roots. It neutralizes acidic soils. Contains composted forest humus, earthworm castings, bat guano, oyster shell and dolomite lime (for pH adjustment), humic acid (derived from Leonardite), granite dust, and mycorrhizae (beneficial microbes). Will cover 6 ft. x 6 ft. area 1 inch deep. do not mix this more the 50/50 or it will be to heavy and compact. It contains Composted red wood from the saw mills (the stuff they would normally throw away), worm castings, bat guano, humic, micorrizea, oster shell. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/happy_frog.htm Happy Frog has all my fav's in one bag worm casting, bat guano, benifical bateria (increases the root mass).
Next: Worm casting, Earthworm Castings provide plenty of the essential elements that are required for healthy plant growth. 100% organic, non-toxic and odorless. A great source for nitrogen, phosphate, potash, calcium and magnesium. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/earthworm_castings.htm
Bat guano liquid Budswel is one of the finest organic fertilizers available. Custom blended from worm castings, bat guano, seabird guano, soluble seaweeds and natural compost, then finely sifted for high solubility and odorless concentration. Budswel (0-.7-0) is a high-phosphorus bloom formula. There is nothing like totally organic fertilizer for boosting flower and vegetable production. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/budswel.htm
My favorite soil is Fox Farm Ocean Forest Awesome stuff for sure. The Ocean Forest Potting Soil is a unique product that combines the best organic fertilizers on land with the finest ingredients from the sea. The result is a rich, light, organic potting soil that is ready for use directly out of the bag. This product encourages healthy root growth, disease resistance and leafy foliage. Made of rich forest humus, sphagnum peat for aeration, bat guano, fish, crab, shrimp, and Norwegian kelp meals - and of course, Fox Farm's premium earthworm castings. There is also oyster shells mixed in to control pH. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/oceanforest.htm
My favorite way of holds water OR not watering as much would have to be. Soil Moist is an organic "agro-polymer" absorbs water much like a sponge. Used as directed, it can double the amount of water retained by the soil. Totally biodegradable and non-toxic. They look like clear jello. They are also used in head bands to help keep you cool in the summer. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/soil_moist.htm is the link for soil moist.
favorit things to add to the soil or hydro medium when mixing containers are as follows:
Happy Frog: Fox Farm Happy Frog Soil Conditioner is ideal for amending existing garden beds. Happy Frog Soil Conditioner loosens clay soils and provides air space for healthy roots. It neutralizes acidic soils. Contains composted forest humus, earthworm castings, bat guano, oyster shell and dolomite lime (for pH adjustment), humic acid (derived from Leonardite), granite dust, and mycorrhizae (beneficial microbes). Will cover 6 ft. x 6 ft. area 1 inch deep. do not mix this more the 50/50 or it will be to heavy and compact. It contains Composted red wood from the saw mills (the stuff they would normally throw away), worm castings, bat guano, humic, micorrizea, oster shell. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/happy_frog.htm Happy Frog has all my fav's in one bag worm casting, bat guano, benifical bateria (increases the root mass).
Next: Worm casting, Earthworm Castings provide plenty of the essential elements that are required for healthy plant growth. 100% organic, non-toxic and odorless. A great source for nitrogen, phosphate, potash, calcium and magnesium. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/earthworm_castings.htm
Bat guano liquid Budswel is one of the finest organic fertilizers available. Custom blended from worm castings, bat guano, seabird guano, soluble seaweeds and natural compost, then finely sifted for high solubility and odorless concentration. Budswel (0-.7-0) is a high-phosphorus bloom formula. There is nothing like totally organic fertilizer for boosting flower and vegetable production. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/budswel.htm
My favorite soil is Fox Farm Ocean Forest Awesome stuff for sure. The Ocean Forest Potting Soil is a unique product that combines the best organic fertilizers on land with the finest ingredients from the sea. The result is a rich, light, organic potting soil that is ready for use directly out of the bag. This product encourages healthy root growth, disease resistance and leafy foliage. Made of rich forest humus, sphagnum peat for aeration, bat guano, fish, crab, shrimp, and Norwegian kelp meals - and of course, Fox Farm's premium earthworm castings. There is also oyster shells mixed in to control pH. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/oceanforest.htm
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
You Wanted My Favorites Here They Are
Alright we are still on my Fav's Coco. first was the Coir in coffee ground consistancy next we will cover the bigger shread coir like Piece coir or Crop Circles.
Crop Circles: Gardeners who like to watch things grow will love Crop Circles coir fiber coco peat disks! Not only do they expand to five times their starting size when placed in a bucket with three gallons of water, they also feature all the great benefits of growing with coco fiber. After soaking, Crop Circles produce roughly 1 1/2 dry gallons of coco to use, about enough to fill five six-inch pots. These are a bigger shread I like them because they hold less water and more needed oxygen for the roots. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/crop_circles.htm
The new Piece Coir creates an ideal environment for robust root development. Made from a byproduct of the coconut industry, it is a renewable alternative to peat which takes several hundred years to develop. Piece Coir can be used as a soil additive and as a base in hydroponics soilless mixtures for high oxygen and water retention as well as fast root penetration. 40-liter bag of loose-fiber Piece Coir is ready-to-use and requires no soaking. This ia also a bigger shread coir. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/cocnut%20coir.htm
Coconut Fiber Mats are very popular and can be used to line in the bottom of containers or trays to protect the roots. We stock a course coconut fiber mat that is becoming very popular with people that utilize rockwool cubes in an ebb & flow (flood and drain) system. The mat in a roll that is 1/2" thick and comes in 24" and 36" widths. The mat is cut to fit the bottom of the ebb and flow tray forming a protected environment for the delicate root systems. Retains some moisture to prevent the root tips from drying out between watering cycles. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/coco_fiber_mat.htm
There are also coconut pots or containers. Plant roots easily penetrate the durable, fibrous construction of Root Pots. Made from natural byproducts of the coconut industry, square and round Root Pots are perfect for use in hydroponics systems and also serve soil gardeners well as earth-friendly alternatives to plastic and peat pots. the entire container can be transplanted into bigger containers or planted straight into the ground. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/root_pots.htm
Crop Circles: Gardeners who like to watch things grow will love Crop Circles coir fiber coco peat disks! Not only do they expand to five times their starting size when placed in a bucket with three gallons of water, they also feature all the great benefits of growing with coco fiber. After soaking, Crop Circles produce roughly 1 1/2 dry gallons of coco to use, about enough to fill five six-inch pots. These are a bigger shread I like them because they hold less water and more needed oxygen for the roots. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/crop_circles.htm
The new Piece Coir creates an ideal environment for robust root development. Made from a byproduct of the coconut industry, it is a renewable alternative to peat which takes several hundred years to develop. Piece Coir can be used as a soil additive and as a base in hydroponics soilless mixtures for high oxygen and water retention as well as fast root penetration. 40-liter bag of loose-fiber Piece Coir is ready-to-use and requires no soaking. This ia also a bigger shread coir. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/cocnut%20coir.htm
Coconut Fiber Mats are very popular and can be used to line in the bottom of containers or trays to protect the roots. We stock a course coconut fiber mat that is becoming very popular with people that utilize rockwool cubes in an ebb & flow (flood and drain) system. The mat in a roll that is 1/2" thick and comes in 24" and 36" widths. The mat is cut to fit the bottom of the ebb and flow tray forming a protected environment for the delicate root systems. Retains some moisture to prevent the root tips from drying out between watering cycles. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/coco_fiber_mat.htm
There are also coconut pots or containers. Plant roots easily penetrate the durable, fibrous construction of Root Pots. Made from natural byproducts of the coconut industry, square and round Root Pots are perfect for use in hydroponics systems and also serve soil gardeners well as earth-friendly alternatives to plastic and peat pots. the entire container can be transplanted into bigger containers or planted straight into the ground. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/root_pots.htm
You Wanted My Favorites Here They Are
Okay next you guys wanted me to tell you my favorites:
1.The first favorite that comes to mind is VermiBlend Soil Amendment & Vermi T Solution (aka Verimicrop). The original name for the tea was Organics Alive. These increase the root mass onaverage 387% in 12 days. Your plants do equiv. on the top as they do the bottom. VermiCrop Organics VermiBlend Premium Soil Amendment was created for the organic gardener. VermiBlend Premium Soil Amendment has a unique blend of earthworm castings, compost, fossilized kelp, humus, rock minerals, and mycorrhizae to provide ample amounts of micro nutrients, trace minerals, and beneficial microbes. DO NOT THINK this organic product cannot be used in hydropoinc applications as well. I have mixed it with coco coir, peat moss, spaghnum moss, perlite, ect ect... with very incredible results.
Vermi T Solution. Typically a compost tea must be used immediately after brewing. Unlike compost tea the research and development team at VermiCrop has found by culturing a consistent, correct balance of biology and the immediate refrigeration of the fresh extracted solution, Vermi T will maintain 100% viability for 7 to 10 days. Freshly extracted microbial rich solution can be used just like a compost tea fertilizer. The tea should be reapplied every 2 weeks for best results (Unfortunately because this product does have to be kept at certain temperature, we can not sell it online. But please contact us at 1-352-628-2655, if you are interested in the Vermi T Solution.) Here is the current link for these products if you want to try them yourself: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/vermiblend.htm You should start off when transplanting or making your original mix by adding the vermiblend Soil Amedment then re-apply by using the tea.
2. Lets see next my favorite would be coconut Coir. Now this comes in many different forms. I will tell you about the differnt ones now and let you decide which one would work best for your application. Coconut fiber is rapidly becoming one of the most popular growing mediums in the world. There are many advantages to using this growing medium including, a measure of protection from root diseases and fungus infestation, as well as high levels of natural rooting hormones. Coconut fiber comes dry and compressed and must be "fluffed-up" and re-hydrated to a consistency of wet coffee grounds. They best coco coir going right now that would be the Canna Coir. First off it is soaked for 14 months to get out all the salts. also they add the calcium to the coir so that you do not get cal-mag deficiencies. CANNA Coco substrate is a 100% organic product having a fine, uniform structure, free from viruses, chemical additives and soil diseases. The fact that CANNA Coco is not steamed is not the only thing that distinguishes it from other substrates; this is also achieved by the use of pure, first class source materials. Which come from India, where CANNA production facilities use fresh water only to soak the coco. This to make sure no salts gets in contact with CANNA Coco, ensuring a clean product. Strong root formation, powerful growth and reusability are combined in the CANNA Coco substrate. It also combines the tolerance and organic nature of soil, with the feeding precision when growing in hydroponics. It has a complex balance between water and air which means that it outstrips other substrates. CANNA Coco substrate has been developed and tailored to the needs of the CANNA grower. The only draw back that I have is it stays very wet. Now that can be a very good thing if you are hand watering, but if you are using an automated watering system like an ebb and flo or drip system (both recycle the water for 7-10 days before changing) then you are going to want to add a lot of perlite so that you are able to water more often without over watering. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/coco_substrate.htm
1.The first favorite that comes to mind is VermiBlend Soil Amendment & Vermi T Solution (aka Verimicrop). The original name for the tea was Organics Alive. These increase the root mass onaverage 387% in 12 days. Your plants do equiv. on the top as they do the bottom. VermiCrop Organics VermiBlend Premium Soil Amendment was created for the organic gardener. VermiBlend Premium Soil Amendment has a unique blend of earthworm castings, compost, fossilized kelp, humus, rock minerals, and mycorrhizae to provide ample amounts of micro nutrients, trace minerals, and beneficial microbes. DO NOT THINK this organic product cannot be used in hydropoinc applications as well. I have mixed it with coco coir, peat moss, spaghnum moss, perlite, ect ect... with very incredible results.
Vermi T Solution. Typically a compost tea must be used immediately after brewing. Unlike compost tea the research and development team at VermiCrop has found by culturing a consistent, correct balance of biology and the immediate refrigeration of the fresh extracted solution, Vermi T will maintain 100% viability for 7 to 10 days. Freshly extracted microbial rich solution can be used just like a compost tea fertilizer. The tea should be reapplied every 2 weeks for best results (Unfortunately because this product does have to be kept at certain temperature, we can not sell it online. But please contact us at 1-352-628-2655, if you are interested in the Vermi T Solution.) Here is the current link for these products if you want to try them yourself: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/vermiblend.htm You should start off when transplanting or making your original mix by adding the vermiblend Soil Amedment then re-apply by using the tea.
2. Lets see next my favorite would be coconut Coir. Now this comes in many different forms. I will tell you about the differnt ones now and let you decide which one would work best for your application. Coconut fiber is rapidly becoming one of the most popular growing mediums in the world. There are many advantages to using this growing medium including, a measure of protection from root diseases and fungus infestation, as well as high levels of natural rooting hormones. Coconut fiber comes dry and compressed and must be "fluffed-up" and re-hydrated to a consistency of wet coffee grounds. They best coco coir going right now that would be the Canna Coir. First off it is soaked for 14 months to get out all the salts. also they add the calcium to the coir so that you do not get cal-mag deficiencies. CANNA Coco substrate is a 100% organic product having a fine, uniform structure, free from viruses, chemical additives and soil diseases. The fact that CANNA Coco is not steamed is not the only thing that distinguishes it from other substrates; this is also achieved by the use of pure, first class source materials. Which come from India, where CANNA production facilities use fresh water only to soak the coco. This to make sure no salts gets in contact with CANNA Coco, ensuring a clean product. Strong root formation, powerful growth and reusability are combined in the CANNA Coco substrate. It also combines the tolerance and organic nature of soil, with the feeding precision when growing in hydroponics. It has a complex balance between water and air which means that it outstrips other substrates. CANNA Coco substrate has been developed and tailored to the needs of the CANNA grower. The only draw back that I have is it stays very wet. Now that can be a very good thing if you are hand watering, but if you are using an automated watering system like an ebb and flo or drip system (both recycle the water for 7-10 days before changing) then you are going to want to add a lot of perlite so that you are able to water more often without over watering. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/coco_substrate.htm
There are other brands of coir that are the same consistancy like: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/cocogro_bale.htm made by bontanicare which is also very awesome, but you have to add a cal-mag additive.
http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/cocnut%20coir.htm is Sunleaves version.
okay this post is getting long so I am going to start another post of favorites.
okay this post is getting long so I am going to start another post of favorites.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Composting Tips
Hello everyone I am back and ready to give you guys some awesome tips about composting. So ready or not here we go:
Composting is the decomposition of biodegradable organic matter, producing compost.
Compost serves as a growing medium, or a porous, absorbent material that holds moisture and soluble minerals, providing the support and nutrients in which most plants will flourish. To maximize plant growth, it is sometimes necessary to dilute compost with soil or peat to reduce salinity.
An effective compost pile is about as damp as a well wrung-out sponge. The necessary material should be added, or the pile should be turned to aerate it and bring the outer layers inside and vice versa. You should add water at this time to help keep the pile damp.
Compost should not contain any animal products, as it can attract local wildlife.
A compost pile takes at least three months from beginning to end before it is usable. So it is usually a good idea to have more than one bin or pile going at once if you are wanting to use the compost on a regular basis.
Compost serves as a growing medium, or a porous, absorbent material that holds moisture and soluble minerals, providing the support and nutrients in which most plants will flourish. To maximize plant growth, it is sometimes necessary to dilute compost with soil or peat to reduce salinity.
An effective compost pile is about as damp as a well wrung-out sponge. The necessary material should be added, or the pile should be turned to aerate it and bring the outer layers inside and vice versa. You should add water at this time to help keep the pile damp.
Compost should not contain any animal products, as it can attract local wildlife.
A compost pile takes at least three months from beginning to end before it is usable. So it is usually a good idea to have more than one bin or pile going at once if you are wanting to use the compost on a regular basis.
Grass clippings add necessary nitrogen to a compost pilePiles made up of just grass will compact, slow down and start to stink. turning the pile and adding peat will help the pile from becoming to heavy.
worms are very good for speeding up the compost break down, but they cannot get hot or you will cook them. Worms love coffee grounds. Plants that have been treated with pesticides and/or herbicides (weeds and lawn clippings) should be avoided.
The beneficial bacteria present in worm castings breaks down organic nutrients making the nutrients ready for immediate absorption.
Wooden pallets make excellent compost bins. Start with one pallet on the ground. Drive two metal stakes into each side. Slide additional pallets over each support and you have a bin ready for compost. if your compost pile smells you are not turning it enough. when you start a new compost pile addig some of the old compost will speed up the process.
Soak finished compost in water to "brew" compost "tea," a nutrient-rich liquid that can be used for foliar feeding or for watering plants in your garden, backyard, or houseplants.
here is the link for a wormatopia one of the 3 compost bins we carry: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/wormtopia.htm we also have a rotating compost bin that is very easy to use. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/rodale_composting_book.htm is the link for my favorite composting book. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/enviro-cycle.htm is my favorite compost bin.
here is the link for a wormatopia one of the 3 compost bins we carry: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/wormtopia.htm we also have a rotating compost bin that is very easy to use. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/rodale_composting_book.htm is the link for my favorite composting book. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/enviro-cycle.htm is my favorite compost bin.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
OUT SICK
Good monrnng everyone I am sorry for any delay's updating the blog I have been very sick still am so I just wanted to let you know what was up. I hope to be adding lots of good info this week. I know I still owe you guys composting tips if I am still doing good after breakfast I will try and get some tips up for you today. Again thank you for your pateints.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Water Temperatures & Tips
Water temp being to cold stops the plants from being able to build up pressure, when plants cannot build up pressure they are not able to transport water to the leaves causing them to curl. Leaves curl because the are no longer able to cool themselves.
Water that is to warm have low oxygen level. Low oxygen in the water stops the plants stops the root pump from functioning properly.
Water temp should be between 68 degrees F and 71.6 degrees F. here is the link for reservoir heaters: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/reservoir_heaters.htm this is the easyiest way to heat the water to the desired temp.
If your water is to hot then you can freeze a 2 liter bottle and keep putting that in the water or you can get a water chiller. heres the link to those http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/waterchillers.htm.
you can also add air pumps to the reservoir not only will it keep the water moving but the air bubbles cool the water. keep in mind waterpumps heat water up so if you have a aqua-ponic or aeroflo system ex: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/aeroflo2L.htm the waterpump is going all the time so the water is hot. ( you usually need a water chiller with these types of systems).
Burying the reservoir in the ground half way or little more will also help keep the water cool.
Water that is to warm have low oxygen level. Low oxygen in the water stops the plants stops the root pump from functioning properly.
Water temp should be between 68 degrees F and 71.6 degrees F. here is the link for reservoir heaters: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/reservoir_heaters.htm this is the easyiest way to heat the water to the desired temp.
If your water is to hot then you can freeze a 2 liter bottle and keep putting that in the water or you can get a water chiller. heres the link to those http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/waterchillers.htm.
you can also add air pumps to the reservoir not only will it keep the water moving but the air bubbles cool the water. keep in mind waterpumps heat water up so if you have a aqua-ponic or aeroflo system ex: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/aeroflo2L.htm the waterpump is going all the time so the water is hot. ( you usually need a water chiller with these types of systems).
Burying the reservoir in the ground half way or little more will also help keep the water cool.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Tips for Fresh Air Intake
All right I do not personally think taking fresh air from outside and bring it into your garden is a good idea, BUT if you have to then here is how you do it. Use a hepa filter inline before the air touches the room. Hepa filters remove a majority of pollutants including dust, bugs, and pollen. If you bring air in the room without a Hepa filter you run a high risk of Bug and Disease infestation. Okay we carry Hepa filter but they are not listed on the on-line shop yet we are going to put them on the on-line shop this saturday. for now if you need one you can give us a call: Phone: (352) 628-2655 or Phone: (727) 531-5355. I will update this post saturday with the link to the hepa filters for you guys. The best way to prevent bugs and disease is sealed enviroment.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Lighting Tips
alright I am going to try and give you guys quick tips about lighting I already covered a huge amount of tips in the: Commonly Asked Questions & Answers. selction of http://www.simplyhydro.com/ so I will try to not cover the same stuff in there or at least not as indepth of answers.
1. T-5 Flourescent bulbs: I love t-5 bulbs. they are awesome for seedlings and growth stages, while I do not personally like them for use in he bloom stage it can be done, but you DO NOT want to use all red bulbs. In order to keep the plants at there best health you want to use a 2 blue (6500K) to 1 red (3000K). T-5's do not produce the same amount of heat as the HID (high intensity Discharge).
2. 6500 kelvin is growth spectrum (blue), 3000 kelvin is bloom (red).
3. Seedlings do not need high light levels they cannot even see light until they have there first set of leave. Once they have leaves you want to keep them under low light level like the compact flourescents or T-5's, you can use the smaller Metal Halide but keep in mind t-5 and compact flourescents run a lot cooler then the MH. Putting the seedlings under to big a light or to much light will burn them they will die.
4. How high should the light be? this one is easy. your room should be around 75 degree's with this in mind this is how high your light should be per lamp size. Agrosun flourescents (T-12) style bulbs should be kept 2 to 4 inches off the top of the plant, T-12 do not have much light output the farther away the bulb is from the plant the more stetching you will see in the plant. Compact flourescents (the ones that twist and bend) these good grow compact flourescents usually come in a couple sizes 125 Watt, 150 Watt, 200 Watt these produce more heat then the T-12 agrosun bulbs and cost more but they have way more light lumens spectrum and output. The compact flourescents need to be kept 1 foot to 1 1/2 feet off teh top of the plant canopy or they will sunburn the plant causing permenant tissue damage. T-5 should be about 1 ft to 1 1/2 feet from th etop of the plants. 100 watt up to 250 watt HID lights need to be kept around 1 ft off the top of the plant canopy. 250 watt to 400 watt around 1 1/2 feet.
"A quick tip in between: you get 4 times more light output every foot you are able to drop you light and still keep the plant canopy at 75% no higher. So air cooling your lights allows you to get the light closer without damaging your plants. "
okay back to how high lets see 600 watt lights should be around 2 ft to 3 feet. 1000 watt should be around 3 feet or above. This is a rule in thumb and the cooler your lights run the closer you can get them.
6. How much light should I use for my area? you need to figure out watts per square foot. do not worry it is easy take the size of the room you are going to light up ex: a 4x4 ft area 4x4=16, now lets take a 1000 watt light and divide it by 16, that would be 62.5 watts per sqaure foot. That is a great watt per square foot coverage. Rule of Thumb you do not want below 35 watts per square foot you are not going to get good growth at all.
7. Sometimes you want to put more light in a area then you are able to cool. this is bad if you are not able to keep your room at (avg) 75 degrees yo are going to hurt your yeild. each degree over 75 degrees hurts your over all yeild 5 to 10%. Also you need to keep your night time temp and day time temp within 5 drgrees of each other. SO, you are better off making your room smaller and going with less lights then allowing your room to over heat.
8. How often should I change my bulbs: Flourescents 6 months to year, MH every 8 months, HPS at least once a year. if you do not replace the bulbs this often or more they will loss spectrum output and usable light. these bulbs will work for year and NOT give off proper light needed for best growth and yeild. yes high pressure sodiums (HPS last longer the MH or compact flourescents.
okay as I come up with more stuff I did not already cover in this blog post or Simply's Most Commonly Asked Questions & Answers. which I also wrote I will post them in lighting tips part 2.
WEB UPDATE WWW.SIMPLYHYDRO.COM
I just wanted to thank everyone for being with us all these years. We are in the middle of updating or website for you. Do not worry it is still the same great staff and info you need we are just making the website easier for everyone to find stuff. We know the website was down over the weekend and just wanted to thank you for your patients.
YOU ASKED FOR INFO ON COMPOSTING AND LIGHTING TIPS FIRST
I am typing up some awesome tips and should have some of them posted today for you. I will start with lighting so hold on I will get that going for you guys....
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Should We Give Up Peat For Coir
Peat has always been one of my personal favorites but I recently tried some new coco coir products and I am seriously impressed. To add to that I am going to educate you a little bit about peat and coir and allow you to make your own decision.
1. We are running out of peat. It is considered a non-renewable resource because it takes 220 years for peat to replenish itself. Peat used to come from europe, but we used up all the peat in europe and now all the peat comes from canada. Coconut is an awesome replacement for peat it is a renewable resource and coir is a waste product that would normally be thrown away.
2. Coconut retains more water then peat and does not blow away when the wind blows.
3. Coconut holds more water then peat and does not break down as fast. If you are like me and you like being able to water more often then you can add perlite to the coco. adding perlite allows for more oxygen in the root system. Some gardeners prefer a larger coconut chunk.
4. If the coco is not flushed enough it will hold a lot of salt which is bad for the plants. The higher quality the coconut the more it has been flushed. New products like Canna coir are pre-soaked for 14 months and have calcium added to them. coconut is known for calcium deficiencies, the easy fix is to add calcium to the nutrients you are watering with.
5. I am running experiments at the north store compairing perlite to a canna coir/ perlite mixture. The plants in the coir are growing at twic ethe rate as the plants in straight perlite. I will post picturs of the plants as they grow so yo can see for your self.
http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/canna_coco.htm
http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/canna.htm
http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/cocnut%20coir.htm
http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/coco_gro.htm
http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/crop_circles.htm
These are just some of the links to coconut products simply carries
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
QUICK TIPS EVERY GARDENER SHOULD KNOW
1. To promote ripening in flowers and fruits apply nutrients containing little to no nitrogen with good levels of phosphorous and high levels of potassium.
2. Some farmers have found when applying a good 100% organic nutrient there crops improve hardiness to mildews, rots, and frost during the cold weather.
3. over fertilization can delay the maturity in plants. It can also create a bitter taste in produce and increase the plants chances in mildews and molds.
4. Bloom booster should be applied around 1 month before harvest. they have a high level of phosphorous & potassium which can damage plants if used to soon.
5. Over fertilization makes plants branches soft and unable to hold there own weight. Applying silica will help strengthen the plants by improving the cellular structure of the plants also making it more heat and drought tolerate.
6. Make sure the leaves and fruit of the plants never touch the ground that is like building a bridge for bugs and diseases to come right onto the plants.
7. When adding worm castings to the soil or soilless medium do not exceed 20% castings or the soil or soilless medium will hold to much water creating a lack of oxygen causing root rot. Worm castings have some nitrogen no phosphorus or potash. Worm castings contain gibberellic acid which regulate plant growth. The beneficial bacteria present in worm castings breaks down organic nutrients making the nutrients ready for immediate absorption.
2. Some farmers have found when applying a good 100% organic nutrient there crops improve hardiness to mildews, rots, and frost during the cold weather.
3. over fertilization can delay the maturity in plants. It can also create a bitter taste in produce and increase the plants chances in mildews and molds.
4. Bloom booster should be applied around 1 month before harvest. they have a high level of phosphorous & potassium which can damage plants if used to soon.
5. Over fertilization makes plants branches soft and unable to hold there own weight. Applying silica will help strengthen the plants by improving the cellular structure of the plants also making it more heat and drought tolerate.
6. Make sure the leaves and fruit of the plants never touch the ground that is like building a bridge for bugs and diseases to come right onto the plants.
7. When adding worm castings to the soil or soilless medium do not exceed 20% castings or the soil or soilless medium will hold to much water creating a lack of oxygen causing root rot. Worm castings have some nitrogen no phosphorus or potash. Worm castings contain gibberellic acid which regulate plant growth. The beneficial bacteria present in worm castings breaks down organic nutrients making the nutrients ready for immediate absorption.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Water Purification & Do I Need It
There are many water purifying machines out there. Reverse Osmosis is one of the best ways to purify water. Using a water filtration system remove harmful contaminants from the water. Also having a water filtration system will make the water's ppm level 0. Most if not all feeding schedules start at a 0 ppm level. You might not have to use a water filtration system but it is the best water for your plants because you have no way on knowing what make up the start ppm in your water. Example: If your water out of the tap is 400 ppm you have no way of knowing how much calcium is in the water. If you have city water & you use beneficial bacteria or fungi you HAVE TO USE a water filtration/purification system or the chlorine/chloramines will destroy beneficial bacteria or fungi.
Now here are some important tips you need to know about reverse osmosis machines:
1.There is nothing better for your plants health and your health then RO water.
2.If you have city water or you have just bleached your well to kill harmful bacteria then you have to check for chlorine coming out of the filter lines. as soon as you see there is chlorine comig out of the line you need to change you carbon and sediment filter OR you will distroy the membrane.
3.You need to replace your membrane every 1 to 1 1/2 years or bacteria will start growing and living in it.
4.They can be VERY wasteful they on average use 3-8 gallons of water to make 1 gallon of PURE water.5. RO machines can be ran in line with you sink and refrigerator allowing you to have fresh purified water at you finger tips. RO machine can also be run to a storage tank so you have a back-up supply of water.
Saturday, January 24, 2009
On these pages, we strive to get you all the gardening information you could ever possibly need. At Hydro-U you can take a "Mini-Class" (don't worry there isn't any homework or tests) to learn about various aspects of gardening in general and hydroponics in particular. What is Hydroponics gives a basic explanation of hydroponics and diagrams the basic types of hydroponic systems. We have a Hydroponic F.A.Q. section called Destroying the Myths. We also offer a Tip Of The Week and a section entitled: Ask The Professor where you can view questions asked by others or pose your unique question to the Professor. We also offer several FREE SYSTEM PLANS that you can use to build simple yet effective hydroponic systems out of easy to find inexpensive materials. "NEW" Simply's Most Commonly Asked Questions & Answers. "NEW" Simply Glossary gives definitions to gardening lingo/language.
The family at Simply Hydroponics and Organics wanted to be able to chat with the customer so we decided to start this blog. We will be adding to it as we go so please visit often.
Things to look forward to are gardening tips. Question and Answers from the pro's who know here at Simply Hydroponics and Orgnics. Product info and knowlege you can count on.
Simply hydroponics will be kept and maintained as a family site and we would like to take this moment to remind you. All Messages will be monitored and NO inappropriate discusstion will be allowed.
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