What Are My Fav's #4

My Favorite HID Bulbs are by far Hortilux both MH and HPS. The are the closest thing to the sun that I have found so far I do not get many bad bulb returns from them either. The Hortilux (EYE) Super HPS grow lamps fine-tune your lighting system to provide optimum spectral energy levels that promote vigorous plant growth. The Hortilux grow lamps provide 17% more total energy and 25% more energy in the violet, blue, and green spectrum than standard High Pressure Sodium lamps. These are environmentally friendly and pass EPA, TCLP test criteria as non-hazardous waste. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/hps_bulbs1.htm New Hortilux Blue Metal Halide These bulbs are described as daylight in a bottle. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/mh_bulbs1.htm

My fav. bug preventative and treatments are as follows:

Natural Pyrethrin Concentrate. This is safe because when it dries it breaks down not leaving harmful toxic posions in your yard harming your family and animals. CONTAINS: 0.96% Pyrethrins and 9.6% Piperonyl Butoxide Technical USE ON: Many Vegetables, Ornamentals, Livestock, Pets, and in Households and barns, as a space spray, and to control mosquitoes outdoors. CONTROLS: Vegetables and Ornamentals; Aphids, Whiteflies, Beetles, and Worms. Pets and Livestock; Fleas, Mites, Lice, Flies, Gnats, and Mosquitoes. Households and other areas; Ants, Roaches, Silverfish, Spiders, and many others. Space Spray: Mosquitoes, Flies, Wasps, and others. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/natural_pyrethrin.htm

Garlic Barrier: 100% natural. A minimum risk pesticide that is effective against spider mites and many other plant-sucking bugs. Molds and fungus. Now I have also found that growing garlic in my garden helps keep the bugs away. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/garlic_barrier.htm

Azatrol, a broad spectrum botanical product for control of insects and mites on indoor and outdoor ornamental plants, shrubs, flowers, garden vegetables, fruit and nut trees. Azatrol offers an array of effects by acting as a repellent, anti-feedant, insect growth regulator and ovipositioning deterrent. As a molting inhibitor, it prevents insect larvae from developing into adults. Insects will feed less or not at all on treated foliage, ultimately starving to death. They will also fail to mature and reproduce. This complexity makes it impossible for an insect's resistance to develop. Low odor and OMRI listed. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/azatrol.htm

Neem Oil: Einstein Oil, an all-natural pesticide packed with the power of neem oil, Einstein Oil is particularly effective on spider mites. Einstein Oil is also the smart choice for combating scale, aphids, molds, fungi, & more. This highly concentrated formula mixes with water for lasting control & works by interfering with insects molting rendering pests unable to reach maturity & reproduce. As such, plant pests disappear within one to three life cycles. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/einstein_oil.htm

So now you find yourself asking why I like so many things> If you constantly use the same bug stuff the bugs start becoming immune. I have been known to mix Garlic Barrier with natural Pyreth. or einstien oil.

Best Caterpillar stuff is
Safer Caterpillar Killer
Caterpillar Killer. For trees shrubs and vegetables. Safely kills caterpillars before they can devour your plants. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/safer_caterpillar.htm Caterpillar Killer is a BT product that paralizes there stomach and they starve to death.

My Fav. Beneifical Bug is Lady Bugs, Ladybugs eat aphids and other soft-bodied insects, and can be stored in the refrigerator 1-10 weeks at 35-40 degrees F (depending on time of year). For counter & impulse sales the bag of 1,500 is ideal. Ladybugs may not be available during late April & May (ask).

What are my Fav's #3

alright I have covered Coir. What should I tell you about next: If I have a medium that I know is going to stay to wet I will add perlite. Perlite holds oxygen and allows for faster drainage of soils and mediums. Perlite may be the most commonly used growing medium in the world. This excellent product is used by hydroponic as well as organic gardeners. Perlite has excellent "wicking" action yet doesn't absorb water giving the plants roots plenty of oxygen. Commonly used in a mixture with vermiculite. Sponge Rock is a very large grained perlite (6 -12 mm in size) that is popular among orchid growers. All come in 4 cu ft bags. Simply Hydroponics and Organics sells only high-quality agricultural grade coarse perlite. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/perlite.htm is the link for perlit if you need it.

My favorite way of holds water OR not watering as much would have to be. Soil Moist is an organic "agro-polymer" absorbs water much like a sponge. Used as directed, it can double the amount of water retained by the soil. Totally biodegradable and non-toxic. They look like clear jello. They are also used in head bands to help keep you cool in the summer. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/soil_moist.htm is the link for soil moist.

favorit things to add to the soil or hydro medium when mixing containers are as follows:
Happy Frog: Fox Farm Happy Frog Soil Conditioner is ideal for amending existing garden beds. Happy Frog Soil Conditioner loosens clay soils and provides air space for healthy roots. It neutralizes acidic soils. Contains composted forest humus, earthworm castings, bat guano, oyster shell and dolomite lime (for pH adjustment), humic acid (derived from Leonardite), granite dust, and mycorrhizae (beneficial microbes). Will cover 6 ft. x 6 ft. area 1 inch deep. do not mix this more the 50/50 or it will be to heavy and compact. It contains Composted red wood from the saw mills (the stuff they would normally throw away), worm castings, bat guano, humic, micorrizea, oster shell. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/happy_frog.htm Happy Frog has all my fav's in one bag worm casting, bat guano, benifical bateria (increases the root mass).
Next: Worm casting, Earthworm Castings provide plenty of the essential elements that are required for healthy plant growth. 100% organic, non-toxic and odorless. A great source for nitrogen, phosphate, potash, calcium and magnesium. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/earthworm_castings.htm
Bat guano liquid Budswel is one of the finest organic fertilizers available. Custom blended from worm castings, bat guano, seabird guano, soluble seaweeds and natural compost, then finely sifted for high solubility and odorless concentration. Budswel (0-.7-0) is a high-phosphorus bloom formula. There is nothing like totally organic fertilizer for boosting flower and vegetable production. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/budswel.htm
My favorite soil is Fox Farm Ocean Forest Awesome stuff for sure. The Ocean Forest Potting Soil is a unique product that combines the best organic fertilizers on land with the finest ingredients from the sea. The result is a rich, light, organic potting soil that is ready for use directly out of the bag. This product encourages healthy root growth, disease resistance and leafy foliage. Made of rich forest humus, sphagnum peat for aeration, bat guano, fish, crab, shrimp, and Norwegian kelp meals - and of course, Fox Farm's premium earthworm castings. There is also oyster shells mixed in to control pH. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/oceanforest.htm

You Wanted My Favorites Here They Are

Alright we are still on my Fav's Coco. first was the Coir in coffee ground consistancy next we will cover the bigger shread coir like Piece coir or Crop Circles.

Crop Circles: Gardeners who like to watch things grow will love Crop Circles coir fiber coco peat disks! Not only do they expand to five times their starting size when placed in a bucket with three gallons of water, they also feature all the great benefits of growing with coco fiber. After soaking, Crop Circles produce roughly 1 1/2 dry gallons of coco to use, about enough to fill five six-inch pots. These are a bigger shread I like them because they hold less water and more needed oxygen for the roots. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/crop_circles.htm

The new Piece Coir creates an ideal environment for robust root development. Made from a byproduct of the coconut industry, it is a renewable alternative to peat which takes several hundred years to develop. Piece Coir can be used as a soil additive and as a base in hydroponics soilless mixtures for high oxygen and water retention as well as fast root penetration. 40-liter bag of loose-fiber Piece Coir is ready-to-use and requires no soaking. This ia also a bigger shread coir. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/cocnut%20coir.htm

Coconut Fiber Mats are very popular and can be used to line in the bottom of containers or trays to protect the roots. We stock a course coconut fiber mat that is becoming very popular with people that utilize rockwool cubes in an ebb & flow (flood and drain) system. The mat in a roll that is 1/2" thick and comes in 24" and 36" widths. The mat is cut to fit the bottom of the ebb and flow tray forming a protected environment for the delicate root systems. Retains some moisture to prevent the root tips from drying out between watering cycles. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/coco_fiber_mat.htm

There are also coconut pots or containers. Plant roots easily penetrate the durable, fibrous construction of Root Pots. Made from natural byproducts of the coconut industry, square and round Root Pots are perfect for use in hydroponics systems and also serve soil gardeners well as earth-friendly alternatives to plastic and peat pots. the entire container can be transplanted into bigger containers or planted straight into the ground. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/root_pots.htm

You Wanted My Favorites Here They Are

Okay next you guys wanted me to tell you my favorites:

1.The first favorite that comes to mind is VermiBlend Soil Amendment & Vermi T Solution (aka Verimicrop). The original name for the tea was Organics Alive. These increase the root mass onaverage 387% in 12 days. Your plants do equiv. on the top as they do the bottom. VermiCrop Organics VermiBlend Premium Soil Amendment was created for the organic gardener. VermiBlend Premium Soil Amendment has a unique blend of earthworm castings, compost, fossilized kelp, humus, rock minerals, and mycorrhizae to provide ample amounts of micro nutrients, trace minerals, and beneficial microbes. DO NOT THINK this organic product cannot be used in hydropoinc applications as well. I have mixed it with coco coir, peat moss, spaghnum moss, perlite, ect ect... with very incredible results.

Vermi T Solution. Typically a compost tea must be used immediately after brewing. Unlike compost tea the research and development team at VermiCrop has found by culturing a consistent, correct balance of biology and the immediate refrigeration of the fresh extracted solution, Vermi T will maintain 100% viability for 7 to 10 days. Freshly extracted microbial rich solution can be used just like a compost tea fertilizer. The tea should be reapplied every 2 weeks for best results (Unfortunately because this product does have to be kept at certain temperature, we can not sell it online. But please contact us at 1-352-628-2655, if you are interested in the Vermi T Solution.) Here is the current link for these products if you want to try them yourself: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/vermiblend.htm You should start off when transplanting or making your original mix by adding the vermiblend Soil Amedment then re-apply by using the tea.

2. Lets see next my favorite would be coconut Coir. Now this comes in many different forms. I will tell you about the differnt ones now and let you decide which one would work best for your application. Coconut fiber is rapidly becoming one of the most popular growing mediums in the world. There are many advantages to using this growing medium including, a measure of protection from root diseases and fungus infestation, as well as high levels of natural rooting hormones. Coconut fiber comes dry and compressed and must be "fluffed-up" and re-hydrated to a consistency of wet coffee grounds. They best coco coir going right now that would be the Canna Coir. First off it is soaked for 14 months to get out all the salts. also they add the calcium to the coir so that you do not get cal-mag deficiencies. CANNA Coco substrate is a 100% organic product having a fine, uniform structure, free from viruses, chemical additives and soil diseases. The fact that CANNA Coco is not steamed is not the only thing that distinguishes it from other substrates; this is also achieved by the use of pure, first class source materials. Which come from India, where CANNA production facilities use fresh water only to soak the coco. This to make sure no salts gets in contact with CANNA Coco, ensuring a clean product. Strong root formation, powerful growth and reusability are combined in the CANNA Coco substrate. It also combines the tolerance and organic nature of soil, with the feeding precision when growing in hydroponics. It has a complex balance between water and air which means that it outstrips other substrates. CANNA Coco substrate has been developed and tailored to the needs of the CANNA grower. The only draw back that I have is it stays very wet. Now that can be a very good thing if you are hand watering, but if you are using an automated watering system like an ebb and flo or drip system (both recycle the water for 7-10 days before changing) then you are going to want to add a lot of perlite so that you are able to water more often without over watering. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/coco_substrate.htm

There are other brands of coir that are the same consistancy like: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/cocogro_bale.htm made by bontanicare which is also very awesome, but you have to add a cal-mag additive.

http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/cocnut%20coir.htm is Sunleaves version.

okay this post is getting long so I am going to start another post of favorites.

Composting Tips

Hello everyone I am back and ready to give you guys some awesome tips about composting. So ready or not here we go:

Composting is the decomposition of biodegradable organic matter, producing compost.
Compost serves as a growing medium, or a porous, absorbent material that holds moisture and soluble minerals, providing the support and nutrients in which most plants will flourish. To maximize plant growth, it is sometimes necessary to dilute compost with soil or peat to reduce salinity.
An effective compost pile is about as damp as a well wrung-out sponge. The necessary material should be added, or the pile should be turned to aerate it and bring the outer layers inside and vice versa. You should add water at this time to help keep the pile damp.
Compost should not contain any animal products, as it can attract local wildlife.
A compost pile takes at least three months from beginning to end before it is usable. So it is usually a good idea to have more than one bin or pile going at once if you are wanting to use the compost on a regular basis.

Grass clippings add necessary nitrogen to a compost pilePiles made up of just grass will compact, slow down and start to stink. turning the pile and adding peat will help the pile from becoming to heavy.

worms are very good for speeding up the compost break down, but they cannot get hot or you will cook them. Worms love coffee grounds. Plants that have been treated with pesticides and/or herbicides (weeds and lawn clippings) should be avoided.

The beneficial bacteria present in worm castings breaks down organic nutrients making the nutrients ready for immediate absorption.

Wooden pallets make excellent compost bins. Start with one pallet on the ground. Drive two metal stakes into each side. Slide additional pallets over each support and you have a bin ready for compost. if your compost pile smells you are not turning it enough. when you start a new compost pile addig some of the old compost will speed up the process.

Soak finished compost in water to "brew" compost "tea," a nutrient-rich liquid that can be used for foliar feeding or for watering plants in your garden, backyard, or houseplants.
here is the link for a wormatopia one of the 3 compost bins we carry: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/wormtopia.htm we also have a rotating compost bin that is very easy to use. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/rodale_composting_book.htm is the link for my favorite composting book. http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/enviro-cycle.htm is my favorite compost bin.

OUT SICK

Good monrnng everyone I am sorry for any delay's updating the blog I have been very sick still am so I just wanted to let you know what was up. I hope to be adding lots of good info this week. I know I still owe you guys composting tips if I am still doing good after breakfast I will try and get some tips up for you today. Again thank you for your pateints.

Water Temperatures & Tips

Water temp being to cold stops the plants from being able to build up pressure, when plants cannot build up pressure they are not able to transport water to the leaves causing them to curl. Leaves curl because the are no longer able to cool themselves.
Water that is to warm have low oxygen level. Low oxygen in the water stops the plants stops the root pump from functioning properly.
Water temp should be between 68 degrees F and 71.6 degrees F. here is the link for reservoir heaters: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/reservoir_heaters.htm this is the easyiest way to heat the water to the desired temp.
If your water is to hot then you can freeze a 2 liter bottle and keep putting that in the water or you can get a water chiller. heres the link to those http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/waterchillers.htm.
you can also add air pumps to the reservoir not only will it keep the water moving but the air bubbles cool the water. keep in mind waterpumps heat water up so if you have a aqua-ponic or aeroflo system ex: http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/aeroflo2L.htm the waterpump is going all the time so the water is hot. ( you usually need a water chiller with these types of systems).
Burying the reservoir in the ground half way or little more will also help keep the water cool.

Tips for Fresh Air Intake

All right I do not personally think taking fresh air from outside and bring it into your garden is a good idea, BUT if you have to then here is how you do it. Use a hepa filter inline before the air touches the room. Hepa filters remove a majority of pollutants including dust, bugs, and pollen. If you bring air in the room without a Hepa filter you run a high risk of Bug and Disease infestation. Okay we carry Hepa filter but they are not listed on the on-line shop yet we are going to put them on the on-line shop this saturday. for now if you need one you can give us a call: Phone: (352) 628-2655 or Phone: (727) 531-5355. I will update this post saturday with the link to the hepa filters for you guys. The best way to prevent bugs and disease is sealed enviroment.

Lighting Tips

alright I am going to try and give you guys quick tips about lighting I already covered a huge amount of tips in the: Commonly Asked Questions & Answers. selction of http://www.simplyhydro.com/ so I will try to not cover the same stuff in there or at least not as indepth of answers.

1. T-5 Flourescent bulbs: I love t-5 bulbs. they are awesome for seedlings and growth stages, while I do not personally like them for use in he bloom stage it can be done, but you DO NOT want to use all red bulbs. In order to keep the plants at there best health you want to use a 2 blue (6500K) to 1 red (3000K). T-5's do not produce the same amount of heat as the HID (high intensity Discharge).

2. 6500 kelvin is growth spectrum (blue), 3000 kelvin is bloom (red).

3. Seedlings do not need high light levels they cannot even see light until they have there first set of leave. Once they have leaves you want to keep them under low light level like the compact flourescents or T-5's, you can use the smaller Metal Halide but keep in mind t-5 and compact flourescents run a lot cooler then the MH. Putting the seedlings under to big a light or to much light will burn them they will die.

4. How high should the light be? this one is easy. your room should be around 75 degree's with this in mind this is how high your light should be per lamp size. Agrosun flourescents (T-12) style bulbs should be kept 2 to 4 inches off the top of the plant, T-12 do not have much light output the farther away the bulb is from the plant the more stetching you will see in the plant. Compact flourescents (the ones that twist and bend) these good grow compact flourescents usually come in a couple sizes 125 Watt, 150 Watt, 200 Watt these produce more heat then the T-12 agrosun bulbs and cost more but they have way more light lumens spectrum and output. The compact flourescents need to be kept 1 foot to 1 1/2 feet off teh top of the plant canopy or they will sunburn the plant causing permenant tissue damage. T-5 should be about 1 ft to 1 1/2 feet from th etop of the plants. 100 watt up to 250 watt HID lights need to be kept around 1 ft off the top of the plant canopy. 250 watt to 400 watt around 1 1/2 feet.

"A quick tip in between: you get 4 times more light output every foot you are able to drop you light and still keep the plant canopy at 75% no higher. So air cooling your lights allows you to get the light closer without damaging your plants. "

okay back to how high lets see 600 watt lights should be around 2 ft to 3 feet. 1000 watt should be around 3 feet or above. This is a rule in thumb and the cooler your lights run the closer you can get them.

6. How much light should I use for my area? you need to figure out watts per square foot. do not worry it is easy take the size of the room you are going to light up ex: a 4x4 ft area 4x4=16, now lets take a 1000 watt light and divide it by 16, that would be 62.5 watts per sqaure foot. That is a great watt per square foot coverage. Rule of Thumb you do not want below 35 watts per square foot you are not going to get good growth at all.

7. Sometimes you want to put more light in a area then you are able to cool. this is bad if you are not able to keep your room at (avg) 75 degrees yo are going to hurt your yeild. each degree over 75 degrees hurts your over all yeild 5 to 10%. Also you need to keep your night time temp and day time temp within 5 drgrees of each other. SO, you are better off making your room smaller and going with less lights then allowing your room to over heat.

8. How often should I change my bulbs: Flourescents 6 months to year, MH every 8 months, HPS at least once a year. if you do not replace the bulbs this often or more they will loss spectrum output and usable light. these bulbs will work for year and NOT give off proper light needed for best growth and yeild. yes high pressure sodiums (HPS last longer the MH or compact flourescents.

okay as I come up with more stuff I did not already cover in this blog post or Simply's Most Commonly Asked Questions & Answers. which I also wrote I will post them in lighting tips part 2.

WEB UPDATE WWW.SIMPLYHYDRO.COM

I just wanted to thank everyone for being with us all these years. We are in the middle of updating or website for you. Do not worry it is still the same great staff and info you need we are just making the website easier for everyone to find stuff. We know the website was down over the weekend and just wanted to thank you for your patients.

YOU ASKED FOR INFO ON COMPOSTING AND LIGHTING TIPS FIRST

I am typing up some awesome tips and should have some of them posted today for you. I will start with lighting so hold on I will get that going for you guys....